Why I'm advocating for Bag-in-Box
And it's not just sustainability, I'm lazy too...
In January my husband and I headed on our annual family ski trip. This year, the team sheet hit 12 and we were planning to drive straight from the slopes to the UK. So, with three dogs, ski kit, and three weeks worth of luggage - space was tight.
Enter Bag-in-Box
Honestly, we did it to save space and avoid breakages, but by the end of the trip I wondered why on earth I hadn’t considered it before.
The bags of white and rosé stayed outside to keep cold, but without the Alpine temperatures they would have slotted beautifully in the fridge (granted, the fridge was packed full of my father-in-law’s wedding cake that he had driven down from Scotland. Don’t ask.)
We had two different reds, a beautiful Syrah dominant Côtes-du-Rhône from our neighbour Château La Borie that we had picked up the morning we left from the cellar door and a second easy-drinking Grenache and Merlot IGP from my parents’ village. All were in 5 litres, but we could have bought them in 3 litre and the IGP was available in 10.
Each evening, filling decanters and jugs with wine became part of the ritual of post-ski-pre-meal repertoire. And the wines were enjoyed plentifully with less guilt (nobody feeling like they should ask to open another bottle); less leftovers (no single bottles left each evening); less admin (especially taking up precious recycling bin space).
Of course, if pairing food and wine for such large groups is a way you get your kicks, then buying wine in the 10s of litres with minimal rotation might not be for you. But for this group it was perfect, and I can’t believe I’ve never done it before.
(NB: This isn’t the first time I’ve advocated for BiB. We even served wines decanted from BiB and Vrac to bottles at our wedding! But it’s the first time I thought about taking them to a group holiday like this… and won’t be the last.)
Important stats to know about bag-in-box
It seems remiss to write about BiBs without actually taking some of the facts a little more seriously. At some point I will write up a deeper look at this format and others (thank you MW study research for PAGES on the topic.) But for now; here is a top line.
Invention
In 1955, after the invention of aseptic containers to carry liquid (mostly battery acid!) Thomas Angove, a winemaker in South Australia spotted its potential for the wine industry. He put the so-called ‘goon’ bags into cardboard containers to allow them to serve wine.
However, their inconvenient service mechanism whereby drinkers had to cut off a corner of the bag, pour and then re-seal it with a peg, meant that they didn’t immediately catch on. In 1967, merchant Dan Murphy and inventor Charles Malpas developed a tap to allow wine to be served like a traditional wine cask which was adopted by Penfolds. And the rest, is history.
Carbon footprint
Glass bottles (production and transportation of the heavy glass) is the single biggest contributor to the carbon footprint of the wine we drink. Lightweight bottles are one solution but will only offer a reduction of about 4%... So other formats like bag-in-box or cans make a HUGE difference.
An open letter spearheaded by Wine Traders for Alternative Formats and signed by the likes of Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson confirmed the suspicions that ‘well over a third of the carbon footprint of wine consumed in the UK’ – that is the equivalent of taking 350,000 cars off the road overnight…
The law
Not all appellations currently allow for bag-in-box. For example, Campo Viejo produce a BiB wine but since Rioja is not permitted to be sold in this format, it has to be marketed as ‘Winemakers Blend’ in the UK and ‘red Blend’ in the USA.
Popularity
I see a LOT more BiB in France that is available in the UK although popularity is growing in both countries.
During Covid, bag in box went up massively in France with its highest ever sales. It looks like the UK is set to continue their own upward trend too and more wines become available.
In fact, a recent study showed that the UK are keener than ever to adopt this once stigmatised packaging with more than half of merchants expecting consumers to adopt bag-in-box as wine packaging.
Options available in the UK
There is plenty of rubbish put into boxes which certainly doesn’t help its reputation. But if you know what to buy and where to buy it, there are cardboard treasures to be found.
The Wine Society’s White Burgundy
This is The Wine Society’s most popular white wine – and for good reason. Expertly sourced by Toby Morrhall and now wedged its fine form into a cuboid of drinkability, this is surely a dinner party option of dreams? Put into your finest decanter straight from the fridge and by the time your guests drink it, it will be perfectly aerated and just the right temperature.
https://www.thewinesociety.com/product/225-litre-box-of-the-societys-white-burgundy-2022
Domaine Julien Chantreau 'Javernand' Chiroubles Beaujolais Cru 2021
Cru Beaujolais wine in a box?! You don’t need to ask me twice! There is a bit of age on this proving that BiB doesn’t need to be reserved for this year’s vintage. Just remember, you should drink the box within six weeks once you’ve opened it. But when it’s this perfumed and charming – you won’t struggle.
Domaine of the Bee 'Bee Pink' 2022
Justin Howard-Sneyd MW is somewhat of a champion of sustainability both in the vineyards and beyond. So it’s hardly a surprise that he helps the BiB wine company source wines as well as selling them some of his very own wine from the South of France. Sip away at this Provence style rosé all through spring and summer with a clear conscience.
https://www.bibwine.co.uk/collections/wines/products/domaine-of-the-bee-bee-pink-2022
Lot 10 Malbec from Laylo
And if you’re still a little nervous about the optics of pouring wine from a box, then Laylo are the brand to convince you otherwise. The wines are good and the range full of popular classics, but interestingly they’ve elevated the design of the packaging to make them completely party appropriate. This Malbec is (sustainably) from Spain and made by Lauren Rosillo. It’s fruity, fun and complete with a classic fan design that makes it perfect fodder for your next fiesta.
https://drinklaylo.com/collections/our-wines/products/lot-10-malbec-1
Such good recommendations. I’m just polishing off a box of Ernst Billgren
En Räv i Toscana from a box in Sweden (blended by my chum/co-presenter Maya Samuelsson)