Tried and tested wine and lamb pairings - no fleecing
Finally able to cook in an oven, I've got over-excited testing out recipes and pairings
I’ve just moved into my new house which has meant I can finally cook in an oven! It might not sound too exciting but having cooked on a single camping/portable electric hob, a microwave or a BBQ for nine months, it’s been bliss.
I’ve taken the opportunity to indulge in roasts and with lamb particularly delicious and affordable in the Southern Rhône as well as readily available this time of year, I’ve had plenty of fun trying out some recipes and wine pairings over the past fortnight – just in time for Easter.
For meaty, rich lamb dishes prepared with herbs and heady dark sauces try Ribera del Duero
Momo Vendimia Seleccionada, Ribera del Duero 2019
£13.50 The Wine Society
Ribera del Duero in Spain is the self-professed lamb capital of the world. It’s wines, made mainly from Tempranillo and sometimes blended with Bordeaux varieties, could be compared to close-by region of Rioja with the temperature tuned up. When made well, the higher altitudes of the region cause the wines to have darker fruit flavour, higher acidity and higher tannins than its neighbour.
This wine punches well above its weight in terms of price. Made by fine wine producer Bohórquez, from grapes that didn’t make the cut for the top billing blend, it’s an intense and broody yet charmingly fruity wine with persistent length and a fresh acidity to cut through the natural (delicious) fat of lamb.
(I tried this with a balsamic and red wine braised lamb shank dish as well as a traditional roast leg packed with rosemary - both were delicious).
For smoky lamb prepared on the BBQ or with roasted garlic try South African Cabernet Sauvignon
Peter Barlow, Rustenberg, Stellenbosch
£31.99 Waitrose
Cabernet Sauvignon wines are often excellent pairings with lamb thanks to the herbaceous and berry character and elegant, fine grain tannins. South African Cabernets can often have an inherent and subtle hint of smokiness alongside bright fresh fruit charm from the oodles of sunshine – meaning they’re great pairs for roasts.
‘Peter Barlow’ is the top wine from historic estate Rustenberg. It’s 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for nearly two years in French oak, around 2/3 of which is new to impart extra decadence and silkier tannins. Rustenberg are dab hands at bringing a European flair of winemaking to generous South African fruit and, for me, are a great pick for crowd pleaser wines for a fickle group. And what’s more fickle than a family get-together at Easter?!
(I tried this with the garlic stuffed shoulder - it was great - as well as grilled cutlets which was heavenly.)
For lamb roulade stuffed with herbs, mushrooms or olives look to Italy
Basilisco Teodosio, Aglianico Del Vulture 2020
£13.50 The Wine Society
Most traditionalists look to the northern Italian wines of Chianti or even Barolo with lamb. But a trip to the South last year opened my eyes to the fine wine potential. The often earthy, usually herbaceous character of this variety – Aglianico – is the ideal parter with gamier meats but with enough complexity in the tank to pair with the stuffing in a savoury roulade.
This particular winery is headed up by Viviana Malafarina. I happen to adore Viviana and my write up of a visit to her winery last year was shortlisted for the Jancis Robinson writing competition. Viviana attention to detail in the vineyards pays off in spades in the winery and translates to the glass. In my opinion, she creates some of the most exotic and perfumed expressions of Aglianico I have come across and this, her ‘entry level’ wine is not only wonderful now, it will be delicious in years to come too. In fact, I’ve just ordered some more.
(I tried this with this caper and olive stuffed roulade recipe and it was magical. It would be a great pairing all year round too.)
For any lamb dish, but (more importantly) a person who doesn’t like red wine… try Tavel.
£12.50 Tesco
or
Tavel Cuvée Prima Donna Rosé, Domaine Maby 2022
£14.50 The Wine Society
Rosé is not just for summer, and lamb does not only pair with red wine. Importantly, ‘swimming pool rosé’ won’t stand up to the intense and powerful flavour of lamb (save it for salads and smoked salmon). Instead, try darker but dry rosés such as those from Spain or the Southern Rhône where Tavel is glistening pink jewel of the crown.
Arbousset is a spiced and fruity wine from the region made with 60% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault. It has body and weight but plenty of freshness and fruit to cut through the fatty lamb.
Domaine Maby’s Prima Donna Cuvée is a personal favourite. 50% Grenache and 50% Cinsault, it’s designed with food in mind. And not only that, built to age too – you could easily hold onto this for 10 years and have fun watching it evolve.
Great suggestions. We had a bottle of Domaine Maby with some lamb leg steaks earlier in the week and it matched very well.
Had the Aglianico at the weekend and wish I’d seen your roulade recommendation beforehand!