Have old men ruined Port for the rest of us?

Will a bottle of Port ever be as ‘cool’ as a Provence rosé? Who is going to make it cool? And will they upset those old men?!

Okay, I’m being provocative… And, what’s more, I have to recognise that many of the people trying to revive the image of Port are old men themselves. Old men are also bloody important in the world of wine and, though I have come across plenty of exceptions, they also tend to be the most knowledgeable consumers. So yes, the title was a little click-bait-y. (Sorry!)

But the question still bothers me. If Sherry is the drink of your grandmother, surely Port is the drink of the old man. Has that image tarnished the idea for younger consumers? Is the damage already done?

I’ve enjoyed Port most of my adult life, but I confess that it’s a style of wine I drink far too infrequently. I’ve convinced myself over the years that it’s because I don’t have the right occasion which is, quite frankly, bollocks. The French drink ruby port as an aperitif, a heady combination of ripe fruit flavour, booze and plenty of sugar that is the ideal whistle-wetter. So why do the Brits continue to believe that it’s to be served at the end of the meal, when all the guests are already well-oiled and red faced, and only with the smelliest stilton you can stomach? And why am I still convinced that it’s only bought by men in red trousers and Chelsea life jackets?